Then, just as one ‘Dimoni’, or, ‘Demon’ passes me by, I catch his human eye behind the mask. The moment chills and thrills my soul. What’s real in this fantasy?
Fire! The night of fire burns! Boom! Fireworks scream and flash! Drummers loudly beat their drums. Drumming that incites you, inspires and even invites you, because tonight -for one night only- you have permission to dance with the devil.
Approaching the ‘CorreFoc’ (Fire Run) fiesta for the first time, through the throngs of people weaving in and out of old cobbled streets, you may well be forgiven for thinking you’d stumbled upon a Satan worshipping festival, but, this cultural celebration reaches far deeper and is steeped in tradition and history
In Port Andratx tonight, a sense of high expectation fills the air. An intensity everyone can feel, because we’re all waiting for the same thing. I find my vantage point upon a stone wall and start to notice hundreds of people milling about. The elderly cradling each other and their walking canes, young children fearfully holding onto their mother’s skirts. Hordes of families and friends are present as well as resident ‘Glamour Pusses’. Shoulder to shoulder they stand together, yet, in stark contrast to one demographic that never misses the event, the ‘Renegade Youth’. These little urbanite ninjas come prepared, adhering to the proper dress code. Riot Attire: Gloves, trainers, trousers, hooded jersey, a bandana or cloth covering their nose and mouth, revealing only their ready eyes.
Perched on my wall, I wonder ‘how can they cope wearing so many layers?’ The evening’s getting late and this summer heat is so intense. I check the skies, finding only stars burning in the black night. Then, it occurs to me…’Damn, Hell is even hotter!’ Hell, we’re still waiting for its inhabitants to surface.
Shoulder to shoulder they stand together, yet, in stark contrast to one demographic that never misses the event, the ‘Renegade Youth’. These little urbanite ninjas come prepared, adhering to the proper dress code. Riot Attire: Gloves, trainers, trousers, hooded jersey, a bandana or cloth covering their nose and mouth, revealing only their ready eyes.
There’s a smell of acrid smoke coming from down below, where drums accompany a procession as of ancient times. Behold, fire dancers dressed in tied black robes, twirling instruments of fire parading down the public street. I turn to look up the stone slope, where a lifetime of innocent souls once trod in ascent towards an illuminated church, against the light of which, they stood. Dark and strange silhouettes in the distance, flaming torches reflecting on their heads with curled horns.
What Happens When the Drummers Stop? #
Suddenly, the drummers stop…only to begin again with extra fervour. Our hosts have arrived! Down the slope the darkened figures arrogantly stride, mad and dangerous inside a column of flames. Full of swagger and drink, spitting fire as if in spite, laughing hard, hollering out loud! They wear sack cloth, rope and leather in black, brown and red with clanging goat bells hanging from the front of their trousers.
I become more entranced the closer the Devil gets! My growing desire is to see how their horrific features of twisted angles to high foreheads, cheeks and jowls can capture nightmares!
A Few Bits of Information #
Within various areas of Mallorca, CorreFoc Festivals occur at different occasions at times of year, e.g. on the eve of Sant Antoni (January 16th), patron saint of animals, or in Palma in honor of the patron saint of the city, San Sebastian (January 20th), or on Sant Joan (June 23rd).
Correfoc- Dancing with the Devils in Palma
Feel like you are there, dancing with the devils
Another Fiesta You Shouldn't Miss #
In addition to the numerous activities offered throughout the entire season, those lucky enough to find themselves in Port Andratx during mid-July will soon be immersed in what is arguably the Port's most festive month for Las Fiestas de la Virgen del Carmen, the Patron Saint of the Sea. These traditional fiestas have withstood the test of time and are held every year around the same date, taking place on and around the16th of July, with much of the Port taking part in this revered celebration.
Verge del Carme Fiesta in Andratx
Loud Night of Partying for All Ages
#CorreFocMallorca #SantAntoniMallorca #SantJoanMallorca #SanJuanMallorca
Por Romy Bunn Belamy
13 enero, 2023